If you’re considering building a freestanding deck at ground level, the Bison Level-Up Adjustable Pedestal System is an excellent option. This system simplifies construction, making it easy to create a level deck over uneven ground or surfaces like gravel, concrete, or compacted dirt. In this article, I’ll walk you through the entire process, from preparation to installation, to help you build a sturdy, eye-catching deck using the Level-Up system.
Before getting started, take a look at the area “Before” I built this ground level deck:
Now, take a look at the 14’x14’ deck that I built using the Bison Level Up System.
If you are more of a visual learner, you can check out my YouTube showing this entire deck building process linked above!
Understanding the Level-Up Adjustable Pedestal System
The Bison Level-Up system is designed to support freestanding decks that are not attached to any existing structure. It includes adjustable pedestals that raise and level the deck’s substructure without the need for traditional footers, posts, or beams. With this system, you can build a low-rise deck, with a maximum height of 20 inches from the ground to the top of the decking boards.
Before starting the build, make sure you have all the necessary tools, materials, etc. as outlined in the Level-Up installation guide. This will help ensure safety and efficiency throughout the project. Some of the most critical materials / tools are listed below:
Site and Surface Preparation
The surface where you’ll build your deck must be stable, level, and well-drained. The system can be installed over different surfaces, including:
- An Existing Concrete patio or pavers
- Compacted dirt
- Compacted gravel
For my 14’ x 14’ deck, I decided to build it over a compacted stone base since I think stone is sturdier and allows for better drainage that simply building on compacted dirt.
To do this, I rented a mini-skid steer and I removed the grass, vegetation, etc. from the 14’ x 14’ area in which I am going to build my deck.
After excavating down around 3”, I compacted the soil using a plate compactor that I rented.
After compacting the soil, I added around 3” of a #57 stone base and then I compacted the stone using the plate compactor.
All of this site prep was definitely “overkill”, but it helps me sleep better at night.
With our 14’ x 14’ stone “foundation” area prepared, we can begin laying out the deck.
Establishing the Deck Layout
To ensure that your deck layout is perfectly square, I recommend that you use some stakes and string to establish the layout. Use the 3-4-5 method to ensure the deck area is square, marking the perimeter with stakes and string. Alternatively, you can measure the diagonal distance between each set of opposite corners. If the layout is square, these measurements should be the same for each corner to corner measurement.
Setting Up the Adjustable Pedestals
Once the surface is prepared and the deck layout is established, it’s time to set up the adjustable pedestals. These pedestals support the joists, which in turn, support the decking boards.
Assembling the Pedestals: Each pedestal is adjustable, allowing you to raise or lower it by hand for precise leveling. Attach the Joist Top Attachment to the pedestal, and for sloped surfaces, use the Slope Leveler accessory to keep the pedestals vertical.
Placing the Pedestals: Begin by placing the pedestals in rows, ensuring they are spaced 16 inches apart on center for standard joists. Use a torpedo level to check that each pedestal is aligned with the others, and adjust as necessary by rotating the slope levelers.
Establishing the Pedestal Height of the First Row. Set the first pedestal in the row to the desired height by rotating the adjustable pedestal base. Next, place a 6’ level across multiple pedestals and adjust the height of each pedestal so that they are all at the same height.
Establishing the Pedestal Height of the Second Row. Once the first row of pedestals is at the desired height, preliminarily place the second row of pedestals spaced 16” O.C. Next, take a joist, place it on the pedestals, and use a 6’ level to check the joist level across the deck. Adjust the height of the first pedestal in the second row so that the joist is perfectly level – indicated that the first row and second row of pedestals are at the same height.
Next, place a 6’ level across multiple pedestals and adjust the height of each pedestal so that they match the first pedestals height.
With both rows of pedestals in position you can begin assembling the deck frame .
Building the Deck Frame
Once the pedestals are level and securely positioned, the next step is to build the deck’s substructure.
Deck Joists: Place the deck joists on top of the pedestals and fasten them to the Joist Top Attachments using exterior screws. Ensure that the joists are crowned up (arch facing up) to prevent dips and sagging in the decking surface later.
Rim Joists and Blocking: Attach the rim joists around the perimeter of the deck for added stability, using framing angles for strong connections.
If you are building you deck up against a house or other obstruction, you may need to use framing angle hardware to attach the rim joist to the joists (as shown below).
Finally, install blocking between the joists on both sides of the deck.
Decking Installation
Once the frame is complete, install the decking boards perpendicular to the joists. For my deck, I used composite decking (Trex Enhance Basics – Clam Shell Color) so that the new deck would match the existing deck. Additionally, I used hidden fasteners that go in between the decking boards for a more professional, finished look.
If you are working by yourself, this deck leverage tool will help you to ensure that each of your decking boards is tight up against the next board.
I installed all of the decking boards at full length and then cut off the excess all at once using a circular saw and a piece of lumber as a guide. A track-saw is the best tool for this, but I made do with what I had.
Adding Skirting or Fascia
To give your deck a finished look and conceal the pedestals, install fascia boards or lattice around the perimeter. Depending on the height of your deck, you may need to add support boards to hold the fascia in place securely. This not only improves the aesthetic but also helps with wind uplift resistance.
Additional Considerations and Final Result
If your deck is in a high-wind area or prone to lateral movement, you may need to anchor the deck using ground anchors. These can help secure the deck in place and prevent it from shifting or lifting during storms. Additionally, consider building a privacy screen around the deck as needed to give it a “finished look”. Below are a few photos of the completed deck that I built using the Bison Level Up Adjustable Pedestal System.
Cost Breakdown
Obviously, the cost of each decking project will vary considerably from project to project depending on:
- Size of deck
- Quality of materials used (e.g. pressure treated decking VS high end composite decking
- Labor (DIY VS hiring a contractor)
- Various other factors
With that said, here is what it cost me to build my 14’x14’ deck (approximately):
Material | Cost per Unit | Number of Units | Total Cost |
Level Up Deck System (12 Pedestal Pack) | 290 | 2 | $580 |
2″x10″ Pressure Treated Joists | 30 | 16 | $480 |
Trex Enhance Basics Composite Decking Boards (Clam Shell) | $30 | 32 | $960 |
Fascia Board (4’x8′ PVC Sheet) | 98 | 1 | $98 |
Joist Tape | 30 | 3 | $90 |
Hardware Allowance | Allowance | Allowance | $150 |
#57 Stone | $100 per CY | 2 CY | $200 (Included Delivery) |
Rental Equipment (Skid Steer and Compactor) | Allowance | Allowance | $325 |
TOTAL | $2,883 |
Note that I performed all of the labor myself and I supplied all of the tools needed (drills, saws, etc.). The cost presented above is for materials only.
Conclusion
The Bison Level-Up Adjustable Pedestal System offers a simple and flexible solution for building low-rise, freestanding decks. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you’ll be well on your way to creating a beautiful, level outdoor space. For further details and additional resources, check out my YouTube video (linked at the beginning of this blog article) showing the entire project from start to finish.
Thanks for reading and good luck Building!
DISCLAIMER: This is a reference guide only. Consult local code requirements. Links included in this article might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide, I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting ATimprovements so I can continue to provide you with free content each week!