With everything getting more and more expensive these days, it’s hard to find a high quality shed for under $1,000 dollars (which is a lot of money for a shed!). In this article, I am going to show you how to build a simple 4’x8′ that is about 1/2 the cost of a similar shed that you would buy at your local big box store:
And the best part is that I have created super detailed building and framing plans that you can download (linked here and below) which will make building this shed a breeze. Plans include the materials list, cut lists, and everything you need to build this shed. Just click on the link above (or click the Framing Plan Cover Photo below) and I will send them over to you!
Tools and Materials Needed:
Although the Free Framing Plans have a detailed materials list, below are the suggeted tools and materials needed to build this shed:
- Bison Level Up Foundation Pedestals (it’s the foundation system I used) – https://amzn.to/4ebEjJE
- 2’x4’x8′ Pressure Treated Lumber – 7
- 2’x4’x8′ Standard Lumber – 40
- 4’x8′ Pressure Treated Plywood Sheet – 1
- 4’x8′ OSB Sheet – 1
- 1″x4″x8″ Pressure Treated Trim Boards – 17
- 4’x8′ LP SmartSide Panels – 6
- Roofing Materials (refer to Free Framing Plans)
- Framing Nailer – https://amzn.to/4o66kG0
- Framing Nails – https://amzn.to/4dSyeR8
- Stud Spacer Tool (it just makes things easier) – https://amzn.to/4vnMbh8
- Hinges – https://amzn.to/4dFaCQX
- Shed Ramps (optional – Use Code Andrew10 for 10% off) – https://shedramps.com
Note that the $600 cost listed above is only for the shed framing (similar to what you would get at the big box store). The tools, foundation pedestals, etc. will introduce additional cost.
Now that we have our materials, we can start building the shed!
Step 1: Prepare the Foundation:
Unfortunately, preparing the foundation for your shed is typically the most labor-intensive and cumbersome part of the entire project – but it needs to be done!
For this 4’x8’ shed, I marked the foundation area using a 4×8 sheet of plywood and I dug down around 2” to remove all of the grass vegetation, etc.
Next, I compacted the soil with a hand tamp and placed some landscape fabric over the dirt. The landscape fabric will help to prevent weeds from growing and it will also help to prevent the stone (placed in the next step) from sinking into the dirt – but it is options.
I placed around 2” of stone (Crusher Run or #57 stone will work great) over the landscape fabric and I compacted it with a hand tamp.
For my actual shed foundation, I used the Bison Level Up System which is a heavy duty polymer pedestal that can be adjusted for height and also leveled to compensate for any slope.
To use the system, I attached the joist top attachment to the adjustable pedestal then placed the floating foundation bases in two rows (on either side of my shed foundation).
Next, I adjusted the height of the pedestals and installed slope levelers as needed to ensure that all of them were level and at the same height. Refer to my YouTube video for additional information on this system.
If you are building your shed on a sloped area, check out my blog article linked here for an alternate stone foundation style that is perfect for foundations that need to be built on a severe slope.
Now that we have our foundation prepared, it’s time to build the shed!
Step 1: Build the Shed Base
Cut the pressure treated 2”x4” lumber to the dimensions shown below and fasten the 2”x4” base frame together as shown below using two, 3” screws at each connection point (or nails).
I used a framing nailer and a 16” O.C. spacing tool to build all my shed components, which made the process go much faster.
I decided to build the base frame and then attach the entire assembly to the foundation system.
To do this, I aligned all of the floor joists overtop of the pedestals and then attached each joist to the pedestals using two screws for each strap.
Once the shed base is attached to the foundation, check for level one last time and then attach a sheet of 4’x8’ plywood to the base frame as shown below using exterior rated screws or nails (2.5”- 3” ).
Ensure that the Shed Base frame is square (e.g. confirm that diagonal measurements between corners are the same. Note that some sheets of plywood are slightly larger than 4’x8”. Trim off any excess using a circular saw (if necessary).
Step 2: Build the Side Walls
Once the base is built, cut the lumber to length for the two side walls according to the dimensions below.
Fasten the 2”x4” vertical boards to the base frame as shown in the figure using 3” nails or screws.
Next, position the side walls on top of the shed base as shown in the figure below and attach them to the shed base with a few nails.
Be sure to leave a 3.5” gap at the front and back of the shed base to allow for the installation of the front and back walls.
PRO TIP: I tacked a 2”x4” piece of lumber at the front and back of the shed base to serve as a “spacer” to help me position the sidewalls in place.
Step 3: Build the Back Wall
Once the sidewalls are built and positioned in place, it’s time to build the back wall. Cut the back wall lumber to length according to the dimensions below and fasten everything together.
Position the back wall in place at the back of the shed and attach it to the shed base and the sidewalls using screws or nails.
At this point, your shed should look like the image below:
PRO TIP: It is a lot easer to lift and position the walls in place if you have someone helping you. If you are working along, consider installing some temporary braces on the walls so you don’t accidentally knock them over when lifting the next wall into place.
Step 4: Build the Front Wall
The front wall of the shed is the most complicated because it contains the door header – but it’s not too hard to build!
Cut all of the lumber to the dimensions below and fasten everything together just like you did for the side and back walls.
Note that the door header (shown in grey above) is made up of 2, 2×4’s placed horizontally and stacked 2 boards deep. Refer to the YouTube video for more information. Additionally the purple jack studs show above should be cut to 6’ – 11 ½”. I forgot to dimension it above.
PRO TIP: The actual width of a 2×4 is 1.5” x 3.5” – So our walls are actually 3.5” deep. When we build the door header, we are stacking two, 2×4’s for a total depth of 3” (1.5” + 1.5”). If this was a house, etc. you would want to sandwich a ½” piece of plywood or OSB between the two, 2×4 header boards so that the header is the same depth as the wall (3.5”). But since this is just a shed, I didn’t do this.
The front wall contains the most lumber, so obviously it will be the heaviest. I recommend that you get some help lifting it in place. Once the front wall is positioned on the shed base, attach it to the base and the side walls using screws or nails.
Next, cut out the bottom plate of the wall that goes through the door opening using a Sawzall.
At this point, the shed walls are fully framed and assembled and we can begin cutting and installing the roof rafters.
Step 5: Attach the Roof Rafters and Plywood Roof Decking
Because the front wall is taller that the back wall (by design), there will be slight roof pitch so that rain will run off the back of the shed. However, we need to compensate for that slope when cutting the rafters so that they will sit flat on the front and back wall.
When it comes to cutting the notches in the front and back of the rafters, it should look something like the images below.
Instead of measuring the notches for the rafters, I highly recommend that you clamp a board to the side of the shed and then scribe the notches (as shown below). This is shown in detail within my YouTube video.
After cutting the first rafter, perform a test fit on the shed. If it looks good, use it as a template to scribe and cut all of the rest of the rafters.
Space the rafters every 16″ O.C. and attach them to the front and back walls of the shed. I used a 3.5″ screw to go up though the top plate and into the bottom of the rafter.
You could also use rafter ties or toe-nail in some nails from the side of the rafter and into the top plates.
If you space the rafters 16” O.C., you shed will look like the photo below:
Next, position the 4’x8’ piece of OSB lumber on top of the shed and nail it to the rafter as shown below:
Step 6: Install the LP SmartSiding
To install the LP SmartSiding, I recommend that you install a temporary ledger board guide 1” below the plywood on the shed base. This ledger will help you to get the siding positioned perfectly with a slight overlap over the edge of the shed:
Nail the siding to the shed wall studs. I have a detailed LP SmartSiding installation blog article that I will link here. This blog has much more detailed information on the LP SmartSiding Installation Process.
Note that you will have some of the LP SmartSiding extending past the shed roof (by design) – don’t worry about this for now.
Install the LP SmartSiding on the other side wall and the back wall of the shed as shown.
When it comes to overlapping the two LP SmartSiding panels at the back of the shed, refer to my blog article for how that should look.
Again, don’t worry about the overhang above the shed roof at this time.
For the siding at the front of the shed, I cut a piece of LP SmarSiding in half so that I had 2, 2’x8’ panels that I could install on either side of the door.
Next, I cut a small piece of LP SmartSiding to go above the door and I attached it to the shed framing using nails.
At this point, I went back with a Sawzall and cut all of the LP SmartSiding Panels flush with the plywood roof decking.
Step 7: Install the LP SmartSiding
Next, we need to install trim on all the Shed Corners as shown in red below. Attach one of the trim boards to the side of the shed so that it is flush with the front wall siding. Next, install a piece of trim on the front wall so that it overlaps the first piece of trim and so that it is fully flush at the corner. Nail everything in place. Refer to by blog article linked hereand my YouTube video linked here for more information on installing shed trim.
Repeat the trim installation process on all of the shed corners and around the door as shown.
Step 7: Build the Shed Door
When it comes to building the shed door, I highly recommend that cut everything to size based on your FIELD VERIFIED conditions. Your rough opening for the door could be slightly larger or smaller than mine based on a few factors. With that Said, I like to buid my door so that it is around ¾”-1” less wide and less tall than the opening. This will allow for a slight gap (~1/4”) for the door swing freely without hitting the sides (or top / bottom) of the shed.
To be conservative, the door dimensions listed below are 1” less that the rough opening. I attached all of the door lumber together by toe-nailing in screws – refer to the YouTube Video for additional information.
For a bit of additional structural strength, I added a few gussets to the corners of the door on the backside. I did this with a spare piece of 1”x6” I had lying around – this lumber is not included in the materials list.
Next, I attached a piece of LP SmarSiding to the front of the door so that it was flush with the top and sides of the door frame. I left a 1” overhang on the bottom of the door as shown:
Finally, I trimmed out the door by installing trim boards around the perimeter with one trim board down the center.
To attach the door to the shed, position a shim or spacer along the bottom of the door frame (I like to use a ½” spacer).
Next lift the door in place to that the bottom of the door frame sits on the shim / spacer. Next, ensure that the door is centered within the opening so that the gap on either side of the door is the same.
Attach hinges to the top and bottom of the door as shown (Refer to the YouTube video for additional information on the door installation process).
At this point, the shed is nearly complete! All that we have left to do is install the roof.
Step 8: Install Shed Roofing and the Shed Ramps
There are a ton of different shed roof options. For this shed, I installed a metal roofing system that, honestly, was more complicated than I was expecting. I bought all of the components individually from ABC Supply (who sourced the materials through Marco Metals) and it was just a bit cumbersome.
As a result, I highly recommend that you install a standard asphalt shingle roof on your shed. I have a super detailed blog article and YouTube video that show the entire shed roofing process and both are linked above.
Additionally, if you are looking for a quick an dirty roofing system, you could just install a corrugated metal roof similar to what I did for this fire wood rack I built.
But at the end of the day, you just need to find a way to waterproof the top of the shed.
Additionally, I decided to install some shed ramps that I got from https://shedramps.com. If you use code “Andrew10” you will get 10% off!
These are heavy duty aluminum shed ramps that make getting equipment in and out of the shed super easy.
However, if you want to build your shed ramps from scratch using lumber, I have a YouTube video linked here and blog article linked here that will show you how to do that!
Conclusion:
This shed took me two days to build since I was working alone and I was filming and documenting the entire process. I think that this could easily be built in one day if you plan accordingly and have a helper. Since a similar shed costs around $1200 pre-built, you can save around $500 by building this shed yourself!
Here is a look at the completed shed project (minus the paint!):
I hope this guide was helpful and good luck with your project! I hope to have your support (likes, comments, etc.) on my future YouTube videos! Again, if you want the downloadabel framing plans that you can print and use to build your shed, they are linked here.
Take Care and God Bless,
Andrew
Thanks so much for checking out ATImprovements! If you learned something from this project, you might also like these other DIY Projects:
- How to Build a Concrete Slab Shed Foundation: https://atimprovements.com/how-to-build-a-shed-base-concrete-slab-step-by-step-diy-guide/
- How to Frame a 10’x10′ Shed Base: https://atimprovements.com/how-to-build-a-shed-floor-base-diy-step-by-step-guide/
- How to Frame Shed Walls:https://atimprovements.com/how-to-frame-a-shed-how-to-frame-walls-for-a-10×10-modern-shed-step-by-step-with-pictures/
- How in Install a Shed Window: https://atimprovements.com/shed-window-installation-how-to-install-a-window-in-a-shed-diy/
- How to Install a Roll Up Door in a Shed or Garage:https://atimprovements.com/roll-up-door-installation/
- How to Build a Fence: How to Build a Fence (DIY Guide) – AT Improvements
- How to Build a Fence Gate: How to Build a Fence Gate (7 Steps with Pictures & Video) – AT Improvements
- How to Install a DIY deck Wire Railing: DIY Cable Railing – How to Install Cable Railing Step-by-Step – (atimprovements.com)
- How to Build a Concrete Paver Patio: DIY PAVER PATIO – Easy DIY Paver Patio Ideas – (atimprovements.com)
Thanks!
DISCLAIMER: This is a reference guide only. Consult local code requirements. Links included in this article might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide, I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting ATimprovements so I can continue to provide you with free content each week!